embarking on a Cycling Odyssey: From Cornwall to Portugal
When I disembarked from the ferry in Roscoff, located in northwest france, during the summer of 2024, my cycling experience was limited to a mere 99-mile journey along the Devon coast to Coast, wich I completed over two days. Yet here I stood,ready to undertake an extraordinary adventure—unsupported and pulling a trailer laden with two wooden surfboards,camping gear,and wetsuits. My wife Lizzy and I had rented out our home and lent our campervan to friends; there was no turning back now.
Lizzy also had her own trailer filled with belly boards and essential camping supplies. A seasoned cyclist who had traversed many long distances in her youth—including an remarkable journey across the Andes—she exuded quiet confidence.While excitement bubbled within me at the prospect of this new venture,fear gnawed at my mind about what challenges lay ahead. At 57 years old, could my body endure days of cycling through mountains while setting up camp each night for three months? My previous attempt at mountain biking in the Pyrenees ended poorly when frustration overtook me during my first hairpin turn as I questioned Lizzy’s motives for such endeavors.
The Journey Begins
As we navigated away from Roscoff down a narrow path overgrown with brambles brushing against our legs and trailers, doubts crept into my mind about our decision. Would we encounter trails like this throughout our entire trip? What were we thinking?
The goal was clear: cycle from our home in Cornwall all the way to Cape St Vincent—the southwesternmost point of Europe—while surfing along the way. This enterprising trek would cover approximately 1,900 miles (over 3,000 kilometers).Even though I’d traveled extensively across Europe for surfing before—in campervans or old cars during my younger years—I had never attempted such an extensive journey by bike.
In those earlier days spent chasing waves across Europe with friends meant indulging in cheap red wine while living out fantasies reminiscent of California’s Beach Boys era. We followed paths once taken by surfers who ventured southward during the ’60s and ’70s seeking sun-soaked beaches with world-class waves—a rite of passage that every surfer aspired towards; battling powerful French shore breaks or discovering hidden gems along Spain’s northern coast before losing ourselves amidst Portugal’s rugged coastline.
A New Perspective on Adventure
The thought of reliving that experience but on bicycles exhilarated me immensely! Disillusioned by van travel’s constraints and environmental impact led me toward this new lifestyle choice where simplicity reigned supreme—a surfboard strapped onto a bike alongside minimal gear promised greater fulfillment than any van life ever could.
I believed that traveling by bicycle would allow us access forgotten roads once traversed by early surfers while providing unique beach access unavailable today due largely because modern vehicles dominate these routes.
Navigating Challenges Along The way
Soon after departing Roscoff’s bumpy lanes transitioned into smooth asphalt winding alongside muddy rivers allowing us easy cruising; perhaps everything would turn out alright after all?
I couldn’t shake off feelings questioning whether I truly possessed what it took for such an undertaking given recent setbacks including tearing my anterior cruciate ligament (ACL)—an injury requiring weeks spent confined within crutches wearing knee braces! Initially fearing I’d never surf again only added weight upon returning back into action post-surgery when doctors suggested cycling served as rehabilitation therapy!
E-bikes played pivotal roles throughout this expedition enabling psychological comfort knowing assistance awaited should difficulties arise—even if most rides remained powered minimally most times!
< figcaption data -spacefinder-role =" inline ">
< svg width ='18' Height ='13' ViewBox ='0 ...'/ >
Seignosse marked one significant stop where proper surfing commenced!
Campsite Life & Surfing Adventures Await!
< p > Each evening around six o’clock after five hours pedaling we’d settle down at campsites preparing meals before collapsing onto inflatable beds tired yet fulfilled! Some sites were pre-booked but often luck favored us finding available spots nearby; however one instance required checking into hotels instead—clean sheets felt heavenly!
< p > Despite frequent rain showers soaking us daily being self-sufficient outdoors brought immense joy especially when finally catching good waves near Seignosse just north Biarritz—the satisfaction made it worthwhile!
< figure id =" f3972eab -24 a7 –451 b –9 e42–45130 bb5 a691 " data –space finder –role =" inline " data –space finder –type =" model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement ">
< figcaption data space finder role == ‘ inline ’>< span >< svg Width == ‘18’ Height == ‘13’ ViewBox == ‘...’ />
Marty celebrates conquering another steep climb successfully!
Tackling Spain’s Terrain & Embracing New Waves Ahead!
Upon entering Spain challenging hills shocked us following flat paths through maritime pine forests previously enjoyed crossing borders climbing Jaizkibel Mountain amidst rain fog—a grueling five-mile ascent reaching heights above sea level en route San Sebastián resisting urges pressing e-bike power buttons despite its fame among Tour de France climbs!
Reaching summit left me drenched cold yet euphoric unable see far behind due mist obscuring views reflecting distance traveled since leaving home covering nearly870 miles already feeling accomplished having ridden excellent waves Biarritz Hendaye Seignosse regaining confidence lost months prior realizing riding skills remain intact just like riding bikes—you never forget how!
This exhilarating adventure continued leading coasts Spain Portugal covering additional12000miles next two months experiencing legendary surf spots Mundaka Peniche World Surf reserve Ericeira mending punctures pitching tents67times climbing another20000metres completing Camino de Santiago legs culminating arrival Praza do Obradoiro main square Santiago Compostela highlight still500miles remaining final destination Sagres Algarve.
I may not possess fitness levels akin youth—but thrill adventures remains unchanged!
“the Way Of The Waves,” martin Dorey’s book chronicling his experiences will be released September11th published Bloomsbury Sport (£20). To support Guardian order copy via:guardianbookshop.com”.