Embracing the Unconventional: The rise of Quirky Footwear this Summer
When we think of summer fashion icons, Jane birkin often comes to mind, effortlessly showcasing woven sandals or plimsoll sneakers while wandering through Provence. However, this season marks a shift in inspiration. The latest footwear trends are being shaped by outdoor enthusiasts like kayakers and advocates of barefoot running.
The most unexpected yet sought-after shoes in today’s fashion landscape include rubber flip-flops, neoprene slip-on water shoes, and Vibram’s FiveFingers—unique fitness footwear that separates each toe with individual pockets.
The Latest Trends in Footwear
A recent report from Lyst highlighted the top items searched for and purchased online during the second quarter of 2025. Notably, six out of the ten most popular items were shoes. Among them were The Row’s £670 flip-flops, famously worn by actor Jonathan Bailey at a red carpet event; faded suede boat shoes from Miu Miu; mesh jelly slippers; and those distinctive toe-separating Vibram shoes favored by celebrities like rapper Doechii and Blackpink’s Jennie.
Welcome to the Era of ‘Ugly’ Shoes
This summer is officially dubbed “ugly shoe season.” Dal Chodha, a lecturer at Central Saint Martins in London who recalls wearing Nike Air Rift trainers as a teenager—known for their split-toe design—describes this trend as “polarizing.” He notes that there is an intriguing numbness surrounding how we perceive each other’s styles today. “I enjoy when someone reacts with surprise or confusion,” he shares.
Chodha now prefers vivobarefoot’s Achilles sandals which distinctly separate the big toe from its neighboring digits. “I appreciate when footwear challenges my perception of style,” he explains. “Ugly shoes provoke thought.” During Copenhagen Fashion Week—which concluded recently—unusual shoe designs dominated both street style and runway presentations.
The Evolution of Footwear Design
diverse styles emerged outside show venues—from distressed knee-high biker boots to Merrell trekking trainers and Keen Uneeks, which blend braided sandal aesthetics with canvas sneaker functionality topped off with bungee cord toggles. Chanel also presented rubber wellingtons alongside kitten heels featuring visible cushioned insoles, embellished Crocs, ghillies-style dance shoes, and various hybrid ballet flats such as “sneakerinas.”
The standout choice among attendees was undoubtedly Vibram’s toe-spreading designs starting at £105. Fia Hamelijnck—a creative director based in the Netherlands—originally purchased hers for hiking but now wears them everywhere from grocery stores to fashion events: “People often react visibly when they see them,” she remarks. “They’re undeniably unconventional—and I love that about them.”
A Historical Viewpoint on ‘Ugly’ Shoes
This divisive trend can be traced back to Maison Margiela’s split-toe tabi footwear inspired by conventional Japanese thongs first introduced in 1988. A viral TikTok video from 2023 featuring a woman whose date stole her tabi sparked renewed interest in these unique designs making them as common as classic Converse sneakers today.
“The original appeal behind tabi-style footwear was its ability to shock,” says Chodha.”Now they no longer elicit disgust; instead people are eager for even more extreme options.” Searches for secondhand pairs on platforms like Depop have surged by 296% as April following two decades after Vibram launched its barefoot line-up.
innovative brands continue pushing boundaries: Balenciaga has introduced their zero shoe featuring a molded sole encapsulating just the big toe while Khaite offers backless mules revealing part of it too; Tory Burch sells sliders adorned with metallic big toe rings—all contributing to this evolving narrative around unconventional footwear choices.
Recently artist Takashi Murakami unveiled colorful cutout sliders adorned with his signature flower motif at Selfridges—a testament to how quirky designs are becoming mainstream.
Margiela tabi shoes exemplifying avant-garde design principles.
The Cultural Shift Towards Unique Styles
Ruby Redstone—a fashion historian based out of new York City—asserts that unusual shoe styles have always held significance throughout history citing medieval flats characterized by exaggerated pointed toes alongside ornate Rococo heels.
While beauty remains subjective Redstone observes an evident shift regarding perceptions surrounding what constitutes flattering or functional footwear reflecting society’s growing appetite for eccentricity.
“‘Ugly’ is indeed contentious,” adds Chodha noting these types appeal primarily those resisting conformity within trends or gender norms yet ironically have morphed into trends themselves over time.”