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Autumn in Alentejo: ancient city sites and golden vineyards in Portugal

by Beautiful Club   ·  4 weeks ago  
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Discovering Évora: A Past and Cultural Odyssey

The 16th-century monks of Évora possessed a deep awareness of the fleeting nature of existence.To illustrate this, they transformed an entire chapel using bones excavated from the town’s overflowing cemeteries.The inscription outside the Chapel of Bones reads, “we bones here await yours to join us.” Quite a cheerful thought from those monks! The chapel is adorned with intricately arranged skulls and various skeletal remains. I find myself both fascinated and amused by this haunting display, where skulls are juxtaposed with delicate frescoes depicting cherubs on vaulted ceilings—a whimsical contrast amid the somber atmosphere.

Evora locator map for Portugal

The charm of Évora: An Open-Air Museum Experience

Long before I arrive at the Chapel of Bones, I am enchanted by Évora itself. This ancient city once served as a royal residence for Portuguese kings and is now celebrated as a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with architectural wonders that create an ambiance reminiscent of an open-air museum. Unlike conventional museums where silence prevails, Évora buzzes with life thanks to its 11,000 university students who traverse its historic streets.

A Peek into Academia at University of Évora

I feel a pang of envy while touring the stunning College of the Holy Spirit, part of the University of Évora. For just €3, visitors can explore its breathtaking classrooms—if they’re fortunate enough to find them unoccupied at that moment.My guide andré Birken moved from Germany years ago as an Erasmus student and decided to settle in this sun-drenched region where even late October temperatures hover around 23°C—an easy choice! He introduces me to classrooms embellished with stunning azulejo tiles typical in Portuguese architecture; if lectures become dull, one can easily lose themselves in their picturesque blue-and-white designs.

The roman Influence: Architectural Marvels Await Discovery

The Romans have left an enduring legacy on Évora through monumental structures such as an impressive aqueduct, which greets visitors upon entering town. Dominating the old quarter are 14 elegant Corinthian columns belonging to what was once believed to be a temple dedicated not to Diana but rather Emperor Augustus during the first century AD. Surrounding these ruins are buildings characterized by low whitewashed facades accented with ochre trim and wrought iron balconies—a style reflected throughout my accommodation—the Pousada del Convento Évora—originally constructed as a convent in the 15th century.

A column covered in skeletons in Chapel of Bones
The Chapel Of Bones. Photograph: Sirbouman / Alamy

Culinary Treasures Amidst Scenic Vineyards

The surrounding vineyards burst forth with vibrant autumn colors; Alentejo is recognized as one of Portugal’s premier wine regions—with Baixo Alentejo set to be honored as 2026’s European Wine City’. just ten minutes from central Évora lies Fitapreta winery’, founded by innovative winemaker António Maçanita alongside British viticulturist David Booth who revived ancient grape varieties while adhering strictly organic practices within his estate housed within centuries-old fortified manor walls—a perfect setting for leisurely wine tastings followed by delightful lunches!

At Fitapreta’s modern winery (its exterior clad entirely in cork), André Alves guides me through sampling five out-of-their-twenty-two indigenous varieties—including Freshly Squeezed rosé (delightfully dry), A Laranja Mecânica orange-style wine (though technically not classified thus) & Enxarrama‍ red—all leaving me wishing ‌I could take some home!

Cherubs on blue-and-white azulejos tiles.
Heavenly … Azulejo⁢ tiles adorning University Of evora . Photograph : Geogphotos / Alamy

A Culinary Adventure like No Other

This barely scratches the surface! Sommelier Francisco Cunha invites me into what was originally chapel space within manor house where they serve exquisite seven-course lunches worthy enough attention‍ from Michelin stars! dishes like braised fennel paired beautifully sheep milk cheese sauce turbot‍ alongside famed black ⁤pig ‌delicacies complemented cauliflower cream quenelle were simply divine!

Culinary excellence permeates throughout Alentejo—from​ local favorites found at nearby Enoteca Cartuxa serving own wines paired thin slices⁣ cured black pig chorizo along side creamy ​Monte da Vinha sheep milk ‌cheese reminiscent French Epoisses—to Restaurante Fialho known classic ​dishes expertly prepared such pigs’ cheeks braised red wine melting​ mouth or pork clams combined piquant⁤ peppery stew!

A Cultural Capital Worthy Recognition


Évoras culinary scene alone makes it deserving title holder for upcoming 2027 European Capital Culture ‘. Not‌ forgetting splendid cathedral showcasing blend architectural styles ranging romanesque gothic renaissance baroque ! from here ,‌ walking down narrow Rua Cinco de Outubro lined souvenir shops nestled white yellow houses feels almost rite passage tourists ; yes touristy but charming nonetheless featuring locally made cork handbags ceramics !

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Praça do Giraldo:​ The Heartbeat Of Evora

This ‍leads me towards Praça do ‌Giraldo—the bustling square brimming cafes arcaded shops adorned wrought iron balconies dominated large marble fountain dating back sixteenth century instantly captures attention spot ideal enjoying coffee pastel de‍ nata custard tart ⁣cheesy queijada de evora before embarking further exploration oddities hidden throughout⁤ town ⁢!

Monsaraz: A Day Trip Away But Missing Home Sweet Home Evora
⁢One particular sight catches my eye—the charming row houses nestled ‌beneath sixteenth-century aqueduct Água de Prata located ​northwestern‍ section old town needing more time soak atmosphere yet ultimately follow tourist trail leading hilltop village Monsaraz bordering spain⁢ ; although⁤ picturesque all-white village filled craft boutiques wineries felt somewhat less authentic resembling toy-town experience offering glimpses beaches nearby artificial lake Alqueva ‌western Europe largest man-made lake just outside village!

However , nostalgia creeps back reminding ⁢how much I miss tranquil‍ ambiance found only within confines ‍lovely city itself despite influx tourists ; recalling conversation Andre shared regarding day-trippers coming Lisbon mere‍ ninety minutes away plus tour groups stopping overnight yet ⁢he ‍insists four-five days minimum required truly appreciate everything has offer—I couldn’t agree more‍ since⁣ fleeting moments pass quickly without exploring nature trails museums indulging another leisurely coffee savoring pastéis nata ⁤sunshine reminding us‌ indeed life to short!

This journey was facilitated courtesy Kirker Holidays offering three-night packages Pousada Convento Evora starting £819pp inclusive breakfast car hire flights though rail options available too; additional details visitvisitalentejo.pt ‘