Unveiling the Treasures of Ikaria: A Voyage Through Nature and Heritage
Although the hot springs are not marked on any map, I successfully locate them using my navigation app. We drive until we reach a stone bench at the end of a paved road, which offers a stunning view of the sea. This bench serves as a touching memorial from an individual to her parents, inscribed with “with gratitude and love as deep as the Aegean.” The sentiment strikes a chord with me, especially after recently losing my father. I feel lucky that my mother is by my side on this journey.
A Tranquil Retreat at agia Kyriaki Thermal Springs
We descend towards the hidden cove at Agia Kyriaki thermal springs. Scattered remnants of ancient fishing huts with stone roofs and shuttered homes create an enchanting landscape.following an unmarked path leads us to a natural rock pool where warm waters rise from beneath the sand, blending perfectly with cooler sea water for an exquisite bathing experience. As I relax in this mineral-rich oasis,I admire juniper trees against a vibrant blue sky while listening to gentle waves and chirping cicadas.
The Charm of Ikaria: Where Nature Embraces Tradition
Located in the eastern Aegean Sea and named after Icarus from Greek mythology—who famously flew too close to the sun—Ikaría is renowned for its verdant forests, natural springs, extraordinary wines, rich communist history, and remarkable longevity among its residents. With approximately 8,000 inhabitants spread across various villages over 255 square kilometers—most not focused on tourism—the island remains peaceful until peak season in July and August.
We arrive mid-June via ferry from Kos (with additional connections available from Samos and Athens) at Agios Kirykos port before heading northeast toward Faros—a beach that stretches for miles without any hotels in sight. Our initial accomodation is Lighthouse Lodge; conveniently located next door to a café-bar and two tavernas—just minutes away from our desired hot spring.
A Day Full of Revelation: From Beaches to ancient fortresses
while my mother enjoys some relaxation under a tamarisk tree reading by our beach house’s shorefront, I explore around a cape adorned with mastic bushes and thyme towards Drakano Tower, which features remnants of fortifications dating back to the fourth century BC.The majestic peak of Samos Island alongside Fourni islands punctuates an endless expanse of azure waters—a truly mesmerizing sight.
The beach at Faros attracts numerous Greek families enjoying their evening until dusk falls. At Grigoris Taverna, we indulge in grilled sardines paired with soufiko, summer vegetables slow-cooked in olive oil while sipping local red wine produced right here on Ikaria before drifting off into sleep accompanied by rhythmic waves lapping against shorelines.
Cultural Exploration: Discovering Monokampi Village
The following day takes us northward along Cape Faros where we swim amidst crystal-clear turquoise waters near Iero Bay , believed by legend to be Dionysus’s birthplace!
Navigating through dense forests leads us inland toward Monokampi village—our base for two nights—which requires traversing winding roads through Atheras Mountain that stretch over 40 km across Ikaria’s length rising above 1 kilometer high! My phone call alerts George—the owner behind Moraitika Farmhouse—that we’re lost somewhere within these mountainous terrains; he chuckles saying “Ten kilometers here feel like much more!” Upon arrival he warmly welcomes us into his great-grandmother’s lovingly restored farmhouse turned tourist accommodation after fifteen years’ effort!
An Evening Beneath Stars & Culinary Delights
Sitting outside on terrace during sunset overlooking ocean views while indulging local cheeses paired perfectly organic dry white wine called Begleri—all sourced en route as it was quite far away from any taverna! Eleonora’s falcons swoop overhead as owls hoot softly nearby amidst twinkling glow-worms lighting up night sky above us…
Mornings Filled With nature’s Symphony
Mornings greet us filled with birdsong echoing throughout village square dominated by grand plane tree; following signs lead towards hidden chapel known as Agia Sofia’. Mum points out honeysuckle vines intertwined amongst walnut trees while we gather mulberries & plums along path!
A Coastal Adventure Continues Westward
the next day brings descent down coastline continuing westward stopping briefly Karavostamo swimming spot grabbing fresh spinach pies baked daily nearby bakery than onward searching accommodations suitable stay next few nights ahead! above stunning beaches lies Gialiskari but loud music blaring prompts decision keep moving forward instead…
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At Nas taverna ,we stop again enjoying lunch featuring courgette fritters ,herby meatballs followed homemade cheesecake served alongside breathtaking sea views ! After satisfying meal ,we stroll further discovering lush river canyon sparkling cove eventually finding rooms available Artemis Studio .
Steps lead downward rocky terrain bamboo-fringed estuary swallows damselflies flit about gracefully .Opposite bank showcases ancient harbor walls ruins dedicated worshipping Artemis goddess nature wildlife flowing deep pine-covered Halari gorge extending several kilometers inland offering various paths leading exploration opportunities ahead!
During summertime riverbed fills wild campers seeking adventure yet tranquility reigns currently allowing peaceful moments shared between family members bonding together experiencing beauty surrounding them.Mum swims freshwater lagoon frogs whilst I take dip ocean leaving skin tingling cold sensation upon entry! As sun sets below horizon settling onto artemis’ serene terrace indulging baked aubergine kathoura cheese red peppers goat roasted olive oil wine prepared lovingly Thanasis musician offers tours organic farm Anna ceramics studio shop showcasing beautiful jewelry crafted locally.
After delightful breakfast consisting fresh juice eggs smoked ham enjoyed nearby Reiki cafe head onwards destination located village Agios Polykarpos staying Monopati Eco Stay featuring studios constructed stone wood bamboo large windows framing magnificent vistas encompassing blue skies canyons forests alike!
Owner mentions his sprightly eighty-seven-year-old mother found tending garden outside svelte Popi beams brightly thinning basil plants showing off terraces brimming courgettes sweet potatoes aubergines tomatoes galore! Next day she picks apricots teaches how create basil pesto walnuts sunflower seeds tries teaching ikariotiko dance eliciting laughter when steps mixed up hilariously!
Her beliefs revolves around good food positive thoughts outdoor exercise appreciating nature daily feeling immense gratitude every moment spent alive reminding everyone “We only have one life – let’s make most it!”
As departure approaches sentiments echoed resonate deeply within hearts having made unforgettable memories during two-week revelation journey through enchanting landscapes rich culture shared experiences together creating lasting bonds cherished forevermore!
Lighthouse lodge: Faros, from £105 per night (accommodates 4, minimum three nights); Moraitika Farmhouse: >>>
< em >Monopati Eco Stay:< em >& nbsp ;Agios Polykarpos,& nbsp ;from £80 per studio (sleeps < strong >4-6)& nbsp ;minimum three nights)